why is Nikon 1.4g better when Nikon 1.8g is sharper?





.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty{ margin-bottom:0;
}







1















I am new to photography (just 3 to 4 months of experience) and I am looking to buy a new lens (either 35mm or 50mm, but mostly 35mm because I have already decided Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for the creamy bokeh) for general street photography.



I like my images to be as sharp as possible. I went through many websites and youtube videos and many of them mention that Nikon 1.4g is superior to Nikon 1.8g. At the same time they also mention that Nikon 1.8g is sharper. why is Nikon 1.4g better when Nikon 1.8g is sharper ?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Prem Ramman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 1





    Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?

    – mattdm
    1 hour ago











  • I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera

    – Prem Ramman
    1 hour ago






  • 1





    Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).

    – mattdm
    1 hour ago


















1















I am new to photography (just 3 to 4 months of experience) and I am looking to buy a new lens (either 35mm or 50mm, but mostly 35mm because I have already decided Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for the creamy bokeh) for general street photography.



I like my images to be as sharp as possible. I went through many websites and youtube videos and many of them mention that Nikon 1.4g is superior to Nikon 1.8g. At the same time they also mention that Nikon 1.8g is sharper. why is Nikon 1.4g better when Nikon 1.8g is sharper ?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Prem Ramman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 1





    Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?

    – mattdm
    1 hour ago











  • I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera

    – Prem Ramman
    1 hour ago






  • 1





    Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).

    – mattdm
    1 hour ago














1












1








1


1






I am new to photography (just 3 to 4 months of experience) and I am looking to buy a new lens (either 35mm or 50mm, but mostly 35mm because I have already decided Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for the creamy bokeh) for general street photography.



I like my images to be as sharp as possible. I went through many websites and youtube videos and many of them mention that Nikon 1.4g is superior to Nikon 1.8g. At the same time they also mention that Nikon 1.8g is sharper. why is Nikon 1.4g better when Nikon 1.8g is sharper ?










share|improve this question









New contributor




Prem Ramman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I am new to photography (just 3 to 4 months of experience) and I am looking to buy a new lens (either 35mm or 50mm, but mostly 35mm because I have already decided Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for the creamy bokeh) for general street photography.



I like my images to be as sharp as possible. I went through many websites and youtube videos and many of them mention that Nikon 1.4g is superior to Nikon 1.8g. At the same time they also mention that Nikon 1.8g is sharper. why is Nikon 1.4g better when Nikon 1.8g is sharper ?







lens aperture






share|improve this question









New contributor




Prem Ramman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




Prem Ramman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 1 hour ago







Prem Ramman













New contributor




Prem Ramman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked 1 hour ago









Prem RammanPrem Ramman

62




62




New contributor




Prem Ramman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





Prem Ramman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






Prem Ramman is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








  • 1





    Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?

    – mattdm
    1 hour ago











  • I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera

    – Prem Ramman
    1 hour ago






  • 1





    Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).

    – mattdm
    1 hour ago














  • 1





    Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?

    – mattdm
    1 hour ago











  • I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera

    – Prem Ramman
    1 hour ago






  • 1





    Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).

    – mattdm
    1 hour ago








1




1





Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?

– mattdm
1 hour ago





Can you clarify exactly what lenses you are talking about? I don't think there are any Sigma lenses currently on the market with a designation like "1.4g" or "1.8g". Do you mean for example "F1.4 DG" — or are you referring to Nikon brand lenses?

– mattdm
1 hour ago













I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera

– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago





I was referring to nikon lenses, I own a Nikon D5600 camera

– Prem Ramman
1 hour ago




1




1





Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).

– mattdm
1 hour ago





Can you edit your question to make that clear? The only brand you refer to is Sigma (and there again you use 1.4g, which is confusing).

– mattdm
1 hour ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















2














1) Sharpness is complicated.



Lens sharpness is just one aspect of the overall resolving power of a camera system. The appearance of crispness is separate from the rendition of detail. And a lens can be sharper in the center but not in the corners, or less sharp overall but consistent across the frame.



And that's not even getting into other factors that affect the system as a whole. Camera shake, subject movement, focus accuracy, diffraction — the list goes on. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that unless you are very meticulous with your technique, you won't ever notice a sharpness difference between these lenses, because any lens difference will be overwhelmed by the other things.



2) Sharpness is overrated.



It's fine it like it, but recognize that sharpness is just one aspect of optical performance. All lens design is about compromise between various factors, and correction for one thing inevitably leads to compromise in another. See What image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad? for a detailed look at this. Generally, though, when someone is saying that a lens is better than another even though the other is sharper, some of these other factors are probably at the forefront.



3) Don't forget that extra speed.



An f/1.4 lens can stop down to f/1.8. An f/1.8 lens can't open up to f/1.4.






share|improve this answer
























  • As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?

    – Prem Ramman
    1 hour ago











  • Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."

    – Tetsujin
    1 hour ago





















0














What did the reviewers say about why they chose one lens over the other?



They have their own priorities and biases. You should evaluate the information they present and decide for yourself whether you agree with their conclusions.



Everyone tests lens sharpness because it's easy. Just photograph a resolution chart and read off the numbers. However, this method really tests lens-camera combinations.




  • Beyond a certain level of sharpness, most pixel peepers should be satisfied. For me, around 65 lp/mm is "good enough". A lens that is at least that sharp gives me plenty of detail to work with in real images that are not of resolution charts or brick walls.


  • The difference in sharpness among lenses that exceed sensor capabilities makes no difference to final image quality.



I have two 35-105/3.5 zoom lenses from the 1980s that are quite sharp. The sharpness results are maybe too good and I wonder if I read the chart wrong. Regardless, modern lenses still look just a bit better. (Imagine these are 1"x1" crops from 40"x27" images.)





  • Canon EF 24-105/4L @ 24/4



    Canon 24-105/4L @ 24/4




  • Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4 -and- Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8



    Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8




  • Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5 and 35/4.5



    Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/4.5




There's more to lenses than sharpness.




  • veiling glare

  • contrast


  • flare ghosts


  • focal lengths, zoom range

  • max apertures – variable vs constant


  • distortion


  • chromatic aberration

  • bokeh (quality)

  • close focusing / macro mode

  • color rendering


  • technology – autofocus, image stabilization, etc.



How you prioritize these factors can result in a completely different lens being "better" for you than for me or anyone else. For instance, I'm much more concerned about veiling glare, than distortion and chromatic aberration. As long as distortion and CA are not out of control, they add "character" to images. But terrible veiling glare can make images useless.



Recently, my sharpest, most advanced lenses have become among my least used lenses. Consider XF 18-135/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR. It's an excellent lens by any measure. I consider it an excellent lens, superior to my current favored lens, but it's not suitable for what I want.




  1. I want the short end to be longer (~28mm).

  2. I want constant F3.5 or faster variable aperture (2.8-4)

  3. I want closer minimum-focusing distance.

  4. I want bokeh with "character".






share|improve this answer


























    Your Answer








    StackExchange.ready(function() {
    var channelOptions = {
    tags: "".split(" "),
    id: "61"
    };
    initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

    StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
    // Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
    if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
    StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
    createEditor();
    });
    }
    else {
    createEditor();
    }
    });

    function createEditor() {
    StackExchange.prepareEditor({
    heartbeatType: 'answer',
    autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
    convertImagesToLinks: false,
    noModals: true,
    showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
    reputationToPostImages: null,
    bindNavPrevention: true,
    postfix: "",
    imageUploader: {
    brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
    contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
    allowUrls: true
    },
    noCode: true, onDemand: true,
    discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
    ,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
    });


    }
    });






    Prem Ramman is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










    draft saved

    draft discarded


















    StackExchange.ready(
    function () {
    StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fphoto.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f106657%2fwhy-is-nikon-1-4g-better-when-nikon-1-8g-is-sharper%23new-answer', 'question_page');
    }
    );

    Post as a guest















    Required, but never shown

























    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes








    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    2














    1) Sharpness is complicated.



    Lens sharpness is just one aspect of the overall resolving power of a camera system. The appearance of crispness is separate from the rendition of detail. And a lens can be sharper in the center but not in the corners, or less sharp overall but consistent across the frame.



    And that's not even getting into other factors that affect the system as a whole. Camera shake, subject movement, focus accuracy, diffraction — the list goes on. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that unless you are very meticulous with your technique, you won't ever notice a sharpness difference between these lenses, because any lens difference will be overwhelmed by the other things.



    2) Sharpness is overrated.



    It's fine it like it, but recognize that sharpness is just one aspect of optical performance. All lens design is about compromise between various factors, and correction for one thing inevitably leads to compromise in another. See What image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad? for a detailed look at this. Generally, though, when someone is saying that a lens is better than another even though the other is sharper, some of these other factors are probably at the forefront.



    3) Don't forget that extra speed.



    An f/1.4 lens can stop down to f/1.8. An f/1.8 lens can't open up to f/1.4.






    share|improve this answer
























    • As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?

      – Prem Ramman
      1 hour ago











    • Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."

      – Tetsujin
      1 hour ago


















    2














    1) Sharpness is complicated.



    Lens sharpness is just one aspect of the overall resolving power of a camera system. The appearance of crispness is separate from the rendition of detail. And a lens can be sharper in the center but not in the corners, or less sharp overall but consistent across the frame.



    And that's not even getting into other factors that affect the system as a whole. Camera shake, subject movement, focus accuracy, diffraction — the list goes on. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that unless you are very meticulous with your technique, you won't ever notice a sharpness difference between these lenses, because any lens difference will be overwhelmed by the other things.



    2) Sharpness is overrated.



    It's fine it like it, but recognize that sharpness is just one aspect of optical performance. All lens design is about compromise between various factors, and correction for one thing inevitably leads to compromise in another. See What image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad? for a detailed look at this. Generally, though, when someone is saying that a lens is better than another even though the other is sharper, some of these other factors are probably at the forefront.



    3) Don't forget that extra speed.



    An f/1.4 lens can stop down to f/1.8. An f/1.8 lens can't open up to f/1.4.






    share|improve this answer
























    • As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?

      – Prem Ramman
      1 hour ago











    • Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."

      – Tetsujin
      1 hour ago
















    2












    2








    2







    1) Sharpness is complicated.



    Lens sharpness is just one aspect of the overall resolving power of a camera system. The appearance of crispness is separate from the rendition of detail. And a lens can be sharper in the center but not in the corners, or less sharp overall but consistent across the frame.



    And that's not even getting into other factors that affect the system as a whole. Camera shake, subject movement, focus accuracy, diffraction — the list goes on. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that unless you are very meticulous with your technique, you won't ever notice a sharpness difference between these lenses, because any lens difference will be overwhelmed by the other things.



    2) Sharpness is overrated.



    It's fine it like it, but recognize that sharpness is just one aspect of optical performance. All lens design is about compromise between various factors, and correction for one thing inevitably leads to compromise in another. See What image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad? for a detailed look at this. Generally, though, when someone is saying that a lens is better than another even though the other is sharper, some of these other factors are probably at the forefront.



    3) Don't forget that extra speed.



    An f/1.4 lens can stop down to f/1.8. An f/1.8 lens can't open up to f/1.4.






    share|improve this answer













    1) Sharpness is complicated.



    Lens sharpness is just one aspect of the overall resolving power of a camera system. The appearance of crispness is separate from the rendition of detail. And a lens can be sharper in the center but not in the corners, or less sharp overall but consistent across the frame.



    And that's not even getting into other factors that affect the system as a whole. Camera shake, subject movement, focus accuracy, diffraction — the list goes on. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that unless you are very meticulous with your technique, you won't ever notice a sharpness difference between these lenses, because any lens difference will be overwhelmed by the other things.



    2) Sharpness is overrated.



    It's fine it like it, but recognize that sharpness is just one aspect of optical performance. All lens design is about compromise between various factors, and correction for one thing inevitably leads to compromise in another. See What image-quality characteristics make a lens good or bad? for a detailed look at this. Generally, though, when someone is saying that a lens is better than another even though the other is sharper, some of these other factors are probably at the forefront.



    3) Don't forget that extra speed.



    An f/1.4 lens can stop down to f/1.8. An f/1.8 lens can't open up to f/1.4.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered 1 hour ago









    mattdmmattdm

    123k40357654




    123k40357654













    • As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?

      – Prem Ramman
      1 hour ago











    • Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."

      – Tetsujin
      1 hour ago





















    • As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?

      – Prem Ramman
      1 hour ago











    • Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."

      – Tetsujin
      1 hour ago



















    As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?

    – Prem Ramman
    1 hour ago





    As per 3rd point, does it mean at 1.8 both the lens will take 100% same image ?

    – Prem Ramman
    1 hour ago













    Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."

    – Tetsujin
    1 hour ago







    Brief resume of a conversation I had with the cinematographer on a high-budget TV show yesterday.. Him: "We use these old 1970s Fuji refurbs, £25 grand each, for primes" Me: What about those Arri 45-250 zooms you were using on [other movie]?" Him: "Too sharp, these give us a much better feel."

    – Tetsujin
    1 hour ago















    0














    What did the reviewers say about why they chose one lens over the other?



    They have their own priorities and biases. You should evaluate the information they present and decide for yourself whether you agree with their conclusions.



    Everyone tests lens sharpness because it's easy. Just photograph a resolution chart and read off the numbers. However, this method really tests lens-camera combinations.




    • Beyond a certain level of sharpness, most pixel peepers should be satisfied. For me, around 65 lp/mm is "good enough". A lens that is at least that sharp gives me plenty of detail to work with in real images that are not of resolution charts or brick walls.


    • The difference in sharpness among lenses that exceed sensor capabilities makes no difference to final image quality.



    I have two 35-105/3.5 zoom lenses from the 1980s that are quite sharp. The sharpness results are maybe too good and I wonder if I read the chart wrong. Regardless, modern lenses still look just a bit better. (Imagine these are 1"x1" crops from 40"x27" images.)





    • Canon EF 24-105/4L @ 24/4



      Canon 24-105/4L @ 24/4




    • Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4 -and- Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8



      Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8




    • Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5 and 35/4.5



      Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/4.5




    There's more to lenses than sharpness.




    • veiling glare

    • contrast


    • flare ghosts


    • focal lengths, zoom range

    • max apertures – variable vs constant


    • distortion


    • chromatic aberration

    • bokeh (quality)

    • close focusing / macro mode

    • color rendering


    • technology – autofocus, image stabilization, etc.



    How you prioritize these factors can result in a completely different lens being "better" for you than for me or anyone else. For instance, I'm much more concerned about veiling glare, than distortion and chromatic aberration. As long as distortion and CA are not out of control, they add "character" to images. But terrible veiling glare can make images useless.



    Recently, my sharpest, most advanced lenses have become among my least used lenses. Consider XF 18-135/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR. It's an excellent lens by any measure. I consider it an excellent lens, superior to my current favored lens, but it's not suitable for what I want.




    1. I want the short end to be longer (~28mm).

    2. I want constant F3.5 or faster variable aperture (2.8-4)

    3. I want closer minimum-focusing distance.

    4. I want bokeh with "character".






    share|improve this answer






























      0














      What did the reviewers say about why they chose one lens over the other?



      They have their own priorities and biases. You should evaluate the information they present and decide for yourself whether you agree with their conclusions.



      Everyone tests lens sharpness because it's easy. Just photograph a resolution chart and read off the numbers. However, this method really tests lens-camera combinations.




      • Beyond a certain level of sharpness, most pixel peepers should be satisfied. For me, around 65 lp/mm is "good enough". A lens that is at least that sharp gives me plenty of detail to work with in real images that are not of resolution charts or brick walls.


      • The difference in sharpness among lenses that exceed sensor capabilities makes no difference to final image quality.



      I have two 35-105/3.5 zoom lenses from the 1980s that are quite sharp. The sharpness results are maybe too good and I wonder if I read the chart wrong. Regardless, modern lenses still look just a bit better. (Imagine these are 1"x1" crops from 40"x27" images.)





      • Canon EF 24-105/4L @ 24/4



        Canon 24-105/4L @ 24/4




      • Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4 -and- Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8



        Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8




      • Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5 and 35/4.5



        Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/4.5




      There's more to lenses than sharpness.




      • veiling glare

      • contrast


      • flare ghosts


      • focal lengths, zoom range

      • max apertures – variable vs constant


      • distortion


      • chromatic aberration

      • bokeh (quality)

      • close focusing / macro mode

      • color rendering


      • technology – autofocus, image stabilization, etc.



      How you prioritize these factors can result in a completely different lens being "better" for you than for me or anyone else. For instance, I'm much more concerned about veiling glare, than distortion and chromatic aberration. As long as distortion and CA are not out of control, they add "character" to images. But terrible veiling glare can make images useless.



      Recently, my sharpest, most advanced lenses have become among my least used lenses. Consider XF 18-135/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR. It's an excellent lens by any measure. I consider it an excellent lens, superior to my current favored lens, but it's not suitable for what I want.




      1. I want the short end to be longer (~28mm).

      2. I want constant F3.5 or faster variable aperture (2.8-4)

      3. I want closer minimum-focusing distance.

      4. I want bokeh with "character".






      share|improve this answer




























        0












        0








        0







        What did the reviewers say about why they chose one lens over the other?



        They have their own priorities and biases. You should evaluate the information they present and decide for yourself whether you agree with their conclusions.



        Everyone tests lens sharpness because it's easy. Just photograph a resolution chart and read off the numbers. However, this method really tests lens-camera combinations.




        • Beyond a certain level of sharpness, most pixel peepers should be satisfied. For me, around 65 lp/mm is "good enough". A lens that is at least that sharp gives me plenty of detail to work with in real images that are not of resolution charts or brick walls.


        • The difference in sharpness among lenses that exceed sensor capabilities makes no difference to final image quality.



        I have two 35-105/3.5 zoom lenses from the 1980s that are quite sharp. The sharpness results are maybe too good and I wonder if I read the chart wrong. Regardless, modern lenses still look just a bit better. (Imagine these are 1"x1" crops from 40"x27" images.)





        • Canon EF 24-105/4L @ 24/4



          Canon 24-105/4L @ 24/4




        • Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4 -and- Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8



          Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8




        • Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5 and 35/4.5



          Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/4.5




        There's more to lenses than sharpness.




        • veiling glare

        • contrast


        • flare ghosts


        • focal lengths, zoom range

        • max apertures – variable vs constant


        • distortion


        • chromatic aberration

        • bokeh (quality)

        • close focusing / macro mode

        • color rendering


        • technology – autofocus, image stabilization, etc.



        How you prioritize these factors can result in a completely different lens being "better" for you than for me or anyone else. For instance, I'm much more concerned about veiling glare, than distortion and chromatic aberration. As long as distortion and CA are not out of control, they add "character" to images. But terrible veiling glare can make images useless.



        Recently, my sharpest, most advanced lenses have become among my least used lenses. Consider XF 18-135/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR. It's an excellent lens by any measure. I consider it an excellent lens, superior to my current favored lens, but it's not suitable for what I want.




        1. I want the short end to be longer (~28mm).

        2. I want constant F3.5 or faster variable aperture (2.8-4)

        3. I want closer minimum-focusing distance.

        4. I want bokeh with "character".






        share|improve this answer















        What did the reviewers say about why they chose one lens over the other?



        They have their own priorities and biases. You should evaluate the information they present and decide for yourself whether you agree with their conclusions.



        Everyone tests lens sharpness because it's easy. Just photograph a resolution chart and read off the numbers. However, this method really tests lens-camera combinations.




        • Beyond a certain level of sharpness, most pixel peepers should be satisfied. For me, around 65 lp/mm is "good enough". A lens that is at least that sharp gives me plenty of detail to work with in real images that are not of resolution charts or brick walls.


        • The difference in sharpness among lenses that exceed sensor capabilities makes no difference to final image quality.



        I have two 35-105/3.5 zoom lenses from the 1980s that are quite sharp. The sharpness results are maybe too good and I wonder if I read the chart wrong. Regardless, modern lenses still look just a bit better. (Imagine these are 1"x1" crops from 40"x27" images.)





        • Canon EF 24-105/4L @ 24/4



          Canon 24-105/4L @ 24/4




        • Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4 -and- Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8



          Nikon 24-120/4G @ 24/4Nikon 24-70/2.8E @ 24/2.8




        • Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5 and 35/4.5



          Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/3.5Pentax-A SMC 35-105/3.5 @ 35/4.5




        There's more to lenses than sharpness.




        • veiling glare

        • contrast


        • flare ghosts


        • focal lengths, zoom range

        • max apertures – variable vs constant


        • distortion


        • chromatic aberration

        • bokeh (quality)

        • close focusing / macro mode

        • color rendering


        • technology – autofocus, image stabilization, etc.



        How you prioritize these factors can result in a completely different lens being "better" for you than for me or anyone else. For instance, I'm much more concerned about veiling glare, than distortion and chromatic aberration. As long as distortion and CA are not out of control, they add "character" to images. But terrible veiling glare can make images useless.



        Recently, my sharpest, most advanced lenses have become among my least used lenses. Consider XF 18-135/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR. It's an excellent lens by any measure. I consider it an excellent lens, superior to my current favored lens, but it's not suitable for what I want.




        1. I want the short end to be longer (~28mm).

        2. I want constant F3.5 or faster variable aperture (2.8-4)

        3. I want closer minimum-focusing distance.

        4. I want bokeh with "character".







        share|improve this answer














        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer








        edited 1 min ago

























        answered 13 mins ago









        xiotaxiota

        12.1k41864




        12.1k41864






















            Prem Ramman is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.










            draft saved

            draft discarded


















            Prem Ramman is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.













            Prem Ramman is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.












            Prem Ramman is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
















            Thanks for contributing an answer to Photography Stack Exchange!


            • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

            But avoid



            • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

            • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.


            To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




            draft saved


            draft discarded














            StackExchange.ready(
            function () {
            StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fphoto.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f106657%2fwhy-is-nikon-1-4g-better-when-nikon-1-8g-is-sharper%23new-answer', 'question_page');
            }
            );

            Post as a guest















            Required, but never shown





















































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown

































            Required, but never shown














            Required, but never shown












            Required, but never shown







            Required, but never shown







            Popular posts from this blog

            Masuk log Menu navigasi

            Identifying “long and narrow” polygons in with PostGISlength and width of polygonWhy postgis st_overlaps reports Qgis' “avoid intersections” generated polygon as overlapping with others?Adjusting polygons to boundary and filling holesDrawing polygons with fixed area?How to remove spikes in Polygons with PostGISDeleting sliver polygons after difference operation in QGIS?Snapping boundaries in PostGISSplit polygon into parts adding attributes based on underlying polygon in QGISSplitting overlap between polygons and assign to nearest polygon using PostGIS?Expanding polygons and clipping at midpoint?Removing Intersection of Buffers in Same Layers

            Старые Смолеговицы Содержание История | География | Демография | Достопримечательности | Примечания | НавигацияHGЯOLHGЯOL41 206 832 01641 606 406 141Административно-территориальное деление Ленинградской области«Переписная оброчная книга Водской пятины 1500 года», С. 793«Карта Ингерманландии: Ивангорода, Яма, Копорья, Нотеборга», по материалам 1676 г.«Генеральная карта провинции Ингерманландии» Э. Белинга и А. Андерсина, 1704 г., составлена по материалам 1678 г.«Географический чертёж над Ижорскою землей со своими городами» Адриана Шонбека 1705 г.Новая и достоверная всей Ингерманландии ланткарта. Грав. А. Ростовцев. СПб., 1727 г.Топографическая карта Санкт-Петербургской губернии. 5-и верстка. Шуберт. 1834 г.Описание Санкт-Петербургской губернии по уездам и станамСпецкарта западной части России Ф. Ф. Шуберта. 1844 г.Алфавитный список селений по уездам и станам С.-Петербургской губернииСписки населённых мест Российской Империи, составленные и издаваемые центральным статистическим комитетом министерства внутренних дел. XXXVII. Санкт-Петербургская губерния. По состоянию на 1862 год. СПб. 1864. С. 203Материалы по статистике народного хозяйства в С.-Петербургской губернии. Вып. IX. Частновладельческое хозяйство в Ямбургском уезде. СПб, 1888, С. 146, С. 2, 7, 54Положение о гербе муниципального образования Курское сельское поселениеСправочник истории административно-территориального деления Ленинградской области.Топографическая карта Ленинградской области, квадрат О-35-23-В (Хотыницы), 1930 г.АрхивированоАдминистративно-территориальное деление Ленинградской области. — Л., 1933, С. 27, 198АрхивированоАдминистративно-экономический справочник по Ленинградской области. — Л., 1936, с. 219АрхивированоАдминистративно-территориальное деление Ленинградской области. — Л., 1966, с. 175АрхивированоАдминистративно-территориальное деление Ленинградской области. — Лениздат, 1973, С. 180АрхивированоАдминистративно-территориальное деление Ленинградской области. — Лениздат, 1990, ISBN 5-289-00612-5, С. 38АрхивированоАдминистративно-территориальное деление Ленинградской области. — СПб., 2007, с. 60АрхивированоКоряков Юрий База данных «Этно-языковой состав населённых пунктов России». Ленинградская область.Административно-территориальное деление Ленинградской области. — СПб, 1997, ISBN 5-86153-055-6, С. 41АрхивированоКультовый комплекс Старые Смолеговицы // Электронная энциклопедия ЭрмитажаПроблемы выявления, изучения и сохранения культовых комплексов с каменными крестами: по материалам работ 2016-2017 гг. в Ленинградской области