Pinhole Camera with Instant FilmDIY pinhole lens' aperture is ƒ00, which can't be changed and pictures turn out mostly blackHow to set up a large pinhole photography competition?Can extension tubes be used to zoom in in pinhole / zone plate photography?Can I get Photographic Paper with lower ISO?What lens designs are sharper than a pinhole lens but also allow for multi-month exposures?Developing pinhole camera photos - pictures turn cloudyResolution of a pinhole 'telescope' to observe SunAll images are out of focus with pinhole body capHow does imaging plane's distance affect the picture in a pinhole camera?Why do DSLM designs almost never shift the sensor plane all the way back to save on thickness?

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Pinhole Camera with Instant Film


DIY pinhole lens' aperture is ƒ00, which can't be changed and pictures turn out mostly blackHow to set up a large pinhole photography competition?Can extension tubes be used to zoom in in pinhole / zone plate photography?Can I get Photographic Paper with lower ISO?What lens designs are sharper than a pinhole lens but also allow for multi-month exposures?Developing pinhole camera photos - pictures turn cloudyResolution of a pinhole 'telescope' to observe SunAll images are out of focus with pinhole body capHow does imaging plane's distance affect the picture in a pinhole camera?Why do DSLM designs almost never shift the sensor plane all the way back to save on thickness?













3















I am making a pinhole camera for a school science fair. Is it possible to use Instax Mini Film instead of the long process of developing photo paper? If so, would I use the same design, and just swap the film, or do I have to change the design of the camera?










share|improve this question









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Redline is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
























    3















    I am making a pinhole camera for a school science fair. Is it possible to use Instax Mini Film instead of the long process of developing photo paper? If so, would I use the same design, and just swap the film, or do I have to change the design of the camera?










    share|improve this question









    New contributor




    Redline is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.






















      3












      3








      3








      I am making a pinhole camera for a school science fair. Is it possible to use Instax Mini Film instead of the long process of developing photo paper? If so, would I use the same design, and just swap the film, or do I have to change the design of the camera?










      share|improve this question









      New contributor




      Redline is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.












      I am making a pinhole camera for a school science fair. Is it possible to use Instax Mini Film instead of the long process of developing photo paper? If so, would I use the same design, and just swap the film, or do I have to change the design of the camera?







      camera-design pinhole-cameras fujifilm-instax






      share|improve this question









      New contributor




      Redline is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.











      share|improve this question









      New contributor




      Redline is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.









      share|improve this question




      share|improve this question








      edited 4 hours ago









      Hueco

      11.5k32856




      11.5k32856






      New contributor




      Redline is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.









      asked 5 hours ago









      RedlineRedline

      184




      184




      New contributor




      Redline is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.





      New contributor





      Redline is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.






      Redline is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.




















          2 Answers
          2






          active

          oldest

          votes


















          8














          You definitely have to change the design of the camera. This HowStuffWorks page explains how instant film develops well enough. Essentially, the film cassette contains rollers that roll out the developer to begin developing your film. Until this happens, the film is still light sensitive.



          This is why the cassette begins with a plastic, light blocking layer that must be ejected once the cassette is in the camera. After this, the next shot exposes onto the film, which is then ejected, smooshed through the rollers, and begins development.



          It'd be fairly impractical to pull the film from the cassette in a darkroom, load camera, shoot, go back to darkroom, use rolling pin on film. Instead, you should utilize the cassette as it was designed.



          This means modifying your pinhole camera to load a cassette and provide a pathway for the ejecting film that doesn't compromise the light-tightness of the camera body. It also means adding some batteries and doing some electrical work so as to get the cassette to eject the film on a button press. Yanking the guts out of an Instax camera may help here.



          Or, take the simpler approach and buy something like this instant back which already contains the electronics and film eject button in a nice and neat package. Simply build up your pinhole camera around it for design. Or this one, which appears to not need the electronics.




          Edit to add: So, I sacrificed a cassette for you. You could get away with a completely mechanical design if you shape it up around existing processes. For example, the cassette exposes the film on the bottom corner:



          Images shrunk for inline reading. Click to expand



          enter image description here



          And here's my Lomo's method of ejecting it (actuated):



          enter image description here



          And not actuated:



          enter image description here



          You can see how the metal has a hooked groove meant to grab the exposed film and push it up out of the camera. It only pushes it a bit, then the user is expected to grab and pull it the rest of the way out.






          share|improve this answer

























          • Ok, I don’t know much about film photography, and the project is due in a couple days. You’re saying I can use the film, and develop it manually with a rolling pin, or I would have to integrate the cassette I to my camera? I don’t have time to do anything complicated, would the cassette method be difficult?

            – Redline
            4 hours ago






          • 1





            @Redline I'm saying that first, you need to understand how the film works. Read the linked article. Second, you can replicate this action using a rolling pin, but it would require you to load the film in the dark, expose it, go back into the dark, and roll it out. Which is honestly even less practical than just using photo paper and developing after exposure per most high-school pinhole cameras.

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago











          • @Redline So, you are left with building a camera around the cassette. Fastest implementation would be to buy one of the two film backs that I linked to and to build up the pinhole camera around those. If not wanting to use any pre-fab parts, then you need to build a film-ejector mechanism yourself, which is a bit more complicated.

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago











          • @Redline building a camera around one of the film backs is only as difficult as your lack of proficiency in either woodworking, metalworking, 3d-printing, or ghetto cardboard and duct tape skills. For example, I'm decent with wood and could have the camera built around a film back in ~1-2 days. If you're not, then it will take longer.

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago











          • @Redline what are you doing to create the pinhole, btw? Have you done the math to determine pinhole size and ideal distance from hole to film?

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago



















          0














          Edit: googling reveals "Developing and fixing chemicals are stored in the "sack" of white border on the bottom of the image and when the film is pushed out of the camera the developing process begins." -- so you may need to replicate this pushing mechanism, which may not be easy.



          Old answer: Yes, you can do this. Do remember that if the Intax Mini Film is larger than standard film, to get the same field of view, you need to move it further back (increase the focal length).



          A pinhole camera is just like an ordinary camera, just with a much poorer lens (slow and lacking in sharpness). So, anything that acts as a film will work.



          Remember also to experiment with various exposure times, as changing the film may require changes to the exposure.



          And, if you don't want to use film, you can also make a digital pinhole camera! Just find any old DSLR, drill a hole into the cap, add some tape over the hole in the cap and carefully pierce an extremely small hole into the tape.






          share|improve this answer
























            Your Answer








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            2 Answers
            2






            active

            oldest

            votes








            2 Answers
            2






            active

            oldest

            votes









            active

            oldest

            votes






            active

            oldest

            votes









            8














            You definitely have to change the design of the camera. This HowStuffWorks page explains how instant film develops well enough. Essentially, the film cassette contains rollers that roll out the developer to begin developing your film. Until this happens, the film is still light sensitive.



            This is why the cassette begins with a plastic, light blocking layer that must be ejected once the cassette is in the camera. After this, the next shot exposes onto the film, which is then ejected, smooshed through the rollers, and begins development.



            It'd be fairly impractical to pull the film from the cassette in a darkroom, load camera, shoot, go back to darkroom, use rolling pin on film. Instead, you should utilize the cassette as it was designed.



            This means modifying your pinhole camera to load a cassette and provide a pathway for the ejecting film that doesn't compromise the light-tightness of the camera body. It also means adding some batteries and doing some electrical work so as to get the cassette to eject the film on a button press. Yanking the guts out of an Instax camera may help here.



            Or, take the simpler approach and buy something like this instant back which already contains the electronics and film eject button in a nice and neat package. Simply build up your pinhole camera around it for design. Or this one, which appears to not need the electronics.




            Edit to add: So, I sacrificed a cassette for you. You could get away with a completely mechanical design if you shape it up around existing processes. For example, the cassette exposes the film on the bottom corner:



            Images shrunk for inline reading. Click to expand



            enter image description here



            And here's my Lomo's method of ejecting it (actuated):



            enter image description here



            And not actuated:



            enter image description here



            You can see how the metal has a hooked groove meant to grab the exposed film and push it up out of the camera. It only pushes it a bit, then the user is expected to grab and pull it the rest of the way out.






            share|improve this answer

























            • Ok, I don’t know much about film photography, and the project is due in a couple days. You’re saying I can use the film, and develop it manually with a rolling pin, or I would have to integrate the cassette I to my camera? I don’t have time to do anything complicated, would the cassette method be difficult?

              – Redline
              4 hours ago






            • 1





              @Redline I'm saying that first, you need to understand how the film works. Read the linked article. Second, you can replicate this action using a rolling pin, but it would require you to load the film in the dark, expose it, go back into the dark, and roll it out. Which is honestly even less practical than just using photo paper and developing after exposure per most high-school pinhole cameras.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline So, you are left with building a camera around the cassette. Fastest implementation would be to buy one of the two film backs that I linked to and to build up the pinhole camera around those. If not wanting to use any pre-fab parts, then you need to build a film-ejector mechanism yourself, which is a bit more complicated.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline building a camera around one of the film backs is only as difficult as your lack of proficiency in either woodworking, metalworking, 3d-printing, or ghetto cardboard and duct tape skills. For example, I'm decent with wood and could have the camera built around a film back in ~1-2 days. If you're not, then it will take longer.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline what are you doing to create the pinhole, btw? Have you done the math to determine pinhole size and ideal distance from hole to film?

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago
















            8














            You definitely have to change the design of the camera. This HowStuffWorks page explains how instant film develops well enough. Essentially, the film cassette contains rollers that roll out the developer to begin developing your film. Until this happens, the film is still light sensitive.



            This is why the cassette begins with a plastic, light blocking layer that must be ejected once the cassette is in the camera. After this, the next shot exposes onto the film, which is then ejected, smooshed through the rollers, and begins development.



            It'd be fairly impractical to pull the film from the cassette in a darkroom, load camera, shoot, go back to darkroom, use rolling pin on film. Instead, you should utilize the cassette as it was designed.



            This means modifying your pinhole camera to load a cassette and provide a pathway for the ejecting film that doesn't compromise the light-tightness of the camera body. It also means adding some batteries and doing some electrical work so as to get the cassette to eject the film on a button press. Yanking the guts out of an Instax camera may help here.



            Or, take the simpler approach and buy something like this instant back which already contains the electronics and film eject button in a nice and neat package. Simply build up your pinhole camera around it for design. Or this one, which appears to not need the electronics.




            Edit to add: So, I sacrificed a cassette for you. You could get away with a completely mechanical design if you shape it up around existing processes. For example, the cassette exposes the film on the bottom corner:



            Images shrunk for inline reading. Click to expand



            enter image description here



            And here's my Lomo's method of ejecting it (actuated):



            enter image description here



            And not actuated:



            enter image description here



            You can see how the metal has a hooked groove meant to grab the exposed film and push it up out of the camera. It only pushes it a bit, then the user is expected to grab and pull it the rest of the way out.






            share|improve this answer

























            • Ok, I don’t know much about film photography, and the project is due in a couple days. You’re saying I can use the film, and develop it manually with a rolling pin, or I would have to integrate the cassette I to my camera? I don’t have time to do anything complicated, would the cassette method be difficult?

              – Redline
              4 hours ago






            • 1





              @Redline I'm saying that first, you need to understand how the film works. Read the linked article. Second, you can replicate this action using a rolling pin, but it would require you to load the film in the dark, expose it, go back into the dark, and roll it out. Which is honestly even less practical than just using photo paper and developing after exposure per most high-school pinhole cameras.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline So, you are left with building a camera around the cassette. Fastest implementation would be to buy one of the two film backs that I linked to and to build up the pinhole camera around those. If not wanting to use any pre-fab parts, then you need to build a film-ejector mechanism yourself, which is a bit more complicated.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline building a camera around one of the film backs is only as difficult as your lack of proficiency in either woodworking, metalworking, 3d-printing, or ghetto cardboard and duct tape skills. For example, I'm decent with wood and could have the camera built around a film back in ~1-2 days. If you're not, then it will take longer.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline what are you doing to create the pinhole, btw? Have you done the math to determine pinhole size and ideal distance from hole to film?

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago














            8












            8








            8







            You definitely have to change the design of the camera. This HowStuffWorks page explains how instant film develops well enough. Essentially, the film cassette contains rollers that roll out the developer to begin developing your film. Until this happens, the film is still light sensitive.



            This is why the cassette begins with a plastic, light blocking layer that must be ejected once the cassette is in the camera. After this, the next shot exposes onto the film, which is then ejected, smooshed through the rollers, and begins development.



            It'd be fairly impractical to pull the film from the cassette in a darkroom, load camera, shoot, go back to darkroom, use rolling pin on film. Instead, you should utilize the cassette as it was designed.



            This means modifying your pinhole camera to load a cassette and provide a pathway for the ejecting film that doesn't compromise the light-tightness of the camera body. It also means adding some batteries and doing some electrical work so as to get the cassette to eject the film on a button press. Yanking the guts out of an Instax camera may help here.



            Or, take the simpler approach and buy something like this instant back which already contains the electronics and film eject button in a nice and neat package. Simply build up your pinhole camera around it for design. Or this one, which appears to not need the electronics.




            Edit to add: So, I sacrificed a cassette for you. You could get away with a completely mechanical design if you shape it up around existing processes. For example, the cassette exposes the film on the bottom corner:



            Images shrunk for inline reading. Click to expand



            enter image description here



            And here's my Lomo's method of ejecting it (actuated):



            enter image description here



            And not actuated:



            enter image description here



            You can see how the metal has a hooked groove meant to grab the exposed film and push it up out of the camera. It only pushes it a bit, then the user is expected to grab and pull it the rest of the way out.






            share|improve this answer















            You definitely have to change the design of the camera. This HowStuffWorks page explains how instant film develops well enough. Essentially, the film cassette contains rollers that roll out the developer to begin developing your film. Until this happens, the film is still light sensitive.



            This is why the cassette begins with a plastic, light blocking layer that must be ejected once the cassette is in the camera. After this, the next shot exposes onto the film, which is then ejected, smooshed through the rollers, and begins development.



            It'd be fairly impractical to pull the film from the cassette in a darkroom, load camera, shoot, go back to darkroom, use rolling pin on film. Instead, you should utilize the cassette as it was designed.



            This means modifying your pinhole camera to load a cassette and provide a pathway for the ejecting film that doesn't compromise the light-tightness of the camera body. It also means adding some batteries and doing some electrical work so as to get the cassette to eject the film on a button press. Yanking the guts out of an Instax camera may help here.



            Or, take the simpler approach and buy something like this instant back which already contains the electronics and film eject button in a nice and neat package. Simply build up your pinhole camera around it for design. Or this one, which appears to not need the electronics.




            Edit to add: So, I sacrificed a cassette for you. You could get away with a completely mechanical design if you shape it up around existing processes. For example, the cassette exposes the film on the bottom corner:



            Images shrunk for inline reading. Click to expand



            enter image description here



            And here's my Lomo's method of ejecting it (actuated):



            enter image description here



            And not actuated:



            enter image description here



            You can see how the metal has a hooked groove meant to grab the exposed film and push it up out of the camera. It only pushes it a bit, then the user is expected to grab and pull it the rest of the way out.







            share|improve this answer














            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer








            edited 4 hours ago

























            answered 4 hours ago









            HuecoHueco

            11.5k32856




            11.5k32856












            • Ok, I don’t know much about film photography, and the project is due in a couple days. You’re saying I can use the film, and develop it manually with a rolling pin, or I would have to integrate the cassette I to my camera? I don’t have time to do anything complicated, would the cassette method be difficult?

              – Redline
              4 hours ago






            • 1





              @Redline I'm saying that first, you need to understand how the film works. Read the linked article. Second, you can replicate this action using a rolling pin, but it would require you to load the film in the dark, expose it, go back into the dark, and roll it out. Which is honestly even less practical than just using photo paper and developing after exposure per most high-school pinhole cameras.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline So, you are left with building a camera around the cassette. Fastest implementation would be to buy one of the two film backs that I linked to and to build up the pinhole camera around those. If not wanting to use any pre-fab parts, then you need to build a film-ejector mechanism yourself, which is a bit more complicated.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline building a camera around one of the film backs is only as difficult as your lack of proficiency in either woodworking, metalworking, 3d-printing, or ghetto cardboard and duct tape skills. For example, I'm decent with wood and could have the camera built around a film back in ~1-2 days. If you're not, then it will take longer.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline what are you doing to create the pinhole, btw? Have you done the math to determine pinhole size and ideal distance from hole to film?

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago


















            • Ok, I don’t know much about film photography, and the project is due in a couple days. You’re saying I can use the film, and develop it manually with a rolling pin, or I would have to integrate the cassette I to my camera? I don’t have time to do anything complicated, would the cassette method be difficult?

              – Redline
              4 hours ago






            • 1





              @Redline I'm saying that first, you need to understand how the film works. Read the linked article. Second, you can replicate this action using a rolling pin, but it would require you to load the film in the dark, expose it, go back into the dark, and roll it out. Which is honestly even less practical than just using photo paper and developing after exposure per most high-school pinhole cameras.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline So, you are left with building a camera around the cassette. Fastest implementation would be to buy one of the two film backs that I linked to and to build up the pinhole camera around those. If not wanting to use any pre-fab parts, then you need to build a film-ejector mechanism yourself, which is a bit more complicated.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline building a camera around one of the film backs is only as difficult as your lack of proficiency in either woodworking, metalworking, 3d-printing, or ghetto cardboard and duct tape skills. For example, I'm decent with wood and could have the camera built around a film back in ~1-2 days. If you're not, then it will take longer.

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago











            • @Redline what are you doing to create the pinhole, btw? Have you done the math to determine pinhole size and ideal distance from hole to film?

              – Hueco
              4 hours ago

















            Ok, I don’t know much about film photography, and the project is due in a couple days. You’re saying I can use the film, and develop it manually with a rolling pin, or I would have to integrate the cassette I to my camera? I don’t have time to do anything complicated, would the cassette method be difficult?

            – Redline
            4 hours ago





            Ok, I don’t know much about film photography, and the project is due in a couple days. You’re saying I can use the film, and develop it manually with a rolling pin, or I would have to integrate the cassette I to my camera? I don’t have time to do anything complicated, would the cassette method be difficult?

            – Redline
            4 hours ago




            1




            1





            @Redline I'm saying that first, you need to understand how the film works. Read the linked article. Second, you can replicate this action using a rolling pin, but it would require you to load the film in the dark, expose it, go back into the dark, and roll it out. Which is honestly even less practical than just using photo paper and developing after exposure per most high-school pinhole cameras.

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago





            @Redline I'm saying that first, you need to understand how the film works. Read the linked article. Second, you can replicate this action using a rolling pin, but it would require you to load the film in the dark, expose it, go back into the dark, and roll it out. Which is honestly even less practical than just using photo paper and developing after exposure per most high-school pinhole cameras.

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago













            @Redline So, you are left with building a camera around the cassette. Fastest implementation would be to buy one of the two film backs that I linked to and to build up the pinhole camera around those. If not wanting to use any pre-fab parts, then you need to build a film-ejector mechanism yourself, which is a bit more complicated.

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago





            @Redline So, you are left with building a camera around the cassette. Fastest implementation would be to buy one of the two film backs that I linked to and to build up the pinhole camera around those. If not wanting to use any pre-fab parts, then you need to build a film-ejector mechanism yourself, which is a bit more complicated.

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago













            @Redline building a camera around one of the film backs is only as difficult as your lack of proficiency in either woodworking, metalworking, 3d-printing, or ghetto cardboard and duct tape skills. For example, I'm decent with wood and could have the camera built around a film back in ~1-2 days. If you're not, then it will take longer.

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago





            @Redline building a camera around one of the film backs is only as difficult as your lack of proficiency in either woodworking, metalworking, 3d-printing, or ghetto cardboard and duct tape skills. For example, I'm decent with wood and could have the camera built around a film back in ~1-2 days. If you're not, then it will take longer.

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago













            @Redline what are you doing to create the pinhole, btw? Have you done the math to determine pinhole size and ideal distance from hole to film?

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago






            @Redline what are you doing to create the pinhole, btw? Have you done the math to determine pinhole size and ideal distance from hole to film?

            – Hueco
            4 hours ago














            0














            Edit: googling reveals "Developing and fixing chemicals are stored in the "sack" of white border on the bottom of the image and when the film is pushed out of the camera the developing process begins." -- so you may need to replicate this pushing mechanism, which may not be easy.



            Old answer: Yes, you can do this. Do remember that if the Intax Mini Film is larger than standard film, to get the same field of view, you need to move it further back (increase the focal length).



            A pinhole camera is just like an ordinary camera, just with a much poorer lens (slow and lacking in sharpness). So, anything that acts as a film will work.



            Remember also to experiment with various exposure times, as changing the film may require changes to the exposure.



            And, if you don't want to use film, you can also make a digital pinhole camera! Just find any old DSLR, drill a hole into the cap, add some tape over the hole in the cap and carefully pierce an extremely small hole into the tape.






            share|improve this answer





























              0














              Edit: googling reveals "Developing and fixing chemicals are stored in the "sack" of white border on the bottom of the image and when the film is pushed out of the camera the developing process begins." -- so you may need to replicate this pushing mechanism, which may not be easy.



              Old answer: Yes, you can do this. Do remember that if the Intax Mini Film is larger than standard film, to get the same field of view, you need to move it further back (increase the focal length).



              A pinhole camera is just like an ordinary camera, just with a much poorer lens (slow and lacking in sharpness). So, anything that acts as a film will work.



              Remember also to experiment with various exposure times, as changing the film may require changes to the exposure.



              And, if you don't want to use film, you can also make a digital pinhole camera! Just find any old DSLR, drill a hole into the cap, add some tape over the hole in the cap and carefully pierce an extremely small hole into the tape.






              share|improve this answer



























                0












                0








                0







                Edit: googling reveals "Developing and fixing chemicals are stored in the "sack" of white border on the bottom of the image and when the film is pushed out of the camera the developing process begins." -- so you may need to replicate this pushing mechanism, which may not be easy.



                Old answer: Yes, you can do this. Do remember that if the Intax Mini Film is larger than standard film, to get the same field of view, you need to move it further back (increase the focal length).



                A pinhole camera is just like an ordinary camera, just with a much poorer lens (slow and lacking in sharpness). So, anything that acts as a film will work.



                Remember also to experiment with various exposure times, as changing the film may require changes to the exposure.



                And, if you don't want to use film, you can also make a digital pinhole camera! Just find any old DSLR, drill a hole into the cap, add some tape over the hole in the cap and carefully pierce an extremely small hole into the tape.






                share|improve this answer















                Edit: googling reveals "Developing and fixing chemicals are stored in the "sack" of white border on the bottom of the image and when the film is pushed out of the camera the developing process begins." -- so you may need to replicate this pushing mechanism, which may not be easy.



                Old answer: Yes, you can do this. Do remember that if the Intax Mini Film is larger than standard film, to get the same field of view, you need to move it further back (increase the focal length).



                A pinhole camera is just like an ordinary camera, just with a much poorer lens (slow and lacking in sharpness). So, anything that acts as a film will work.



                Remember also to experiment with various exposure times, as changing the film may require changes to the exposure.



                And, if you don't want to use film, you can also make a digital pinhole camera! Just find any old DSLR, drill a hole into the cap, add some tape over the hole in the cap and carefully pierce an extremely small hole into the tape.







                share|improve this answer














                share|improve this answer



                share|improve this answer








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                juhistjuhist

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